A novel class of supplements promising to deliver 'beauty from within' has surfaced in the beauty industry, sparking curiosity and skepticism. Is the idea of achieving radiant skin just by popping a pill a marketing ploy, or does it actually hold water?
The promise of beautiful skin encapsulated in a pill is compelling, leading more and more consumers to invest in this concept. The global market for women's health and beauty supplements, which was valued at $53.4 billion in 2022, is predicted to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 5.1% from 2023 to 2030. According to Sienna Piccioni, head of beauty at WGSN, "In the current era where health and well-being have taken center stage, beauty consumers are concentrating on what they ingest as much as what they apply topically." The pandemic, in particular, has amplified this trend as access to medical professionals became limited.
In the fast-paced life that many lead, the appeal of a simple, effortless solution for skin health is captivating. Piccioni notes, "Ingesting a collagen-boosting supplement appears more attractive and practical to many, as opposed to following a lengthy 10-step skincare regime."
Broadly, skin supplements fall under two categories: those comprising ingredients naturally occurring in human bodies like collagen, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid, and others featuring nutritional ingredients claiming to enhance skin health.
Brands like The Nue Co. and Aime provide examples of these categories respectively, using a clever blend of marketing tactics, from complex scientific jargon to evoking the allure of a relaxed European lifestyle, to make their products enticing. In recent years, many of these brands have begun to offer both ingestible and topical solutions, suggesting a simultaneous inside-out approach to skin nourishment.
However, experts caution consumers to critically evaluate the lofty promises made by these skin-care supplements. Dr. Amy Wechsler, a New York City-based dermatologist and psychiatrist, questions the efficacy of these products. One major issue she brings up is how much of the beneficial ingredients like collagen actually reach the skin once ingested and absorbed by the digestive system.
It's crucial to consider the credibility of scientific evidence supporting these products. A significant amount of research is funded or conducted by the brands themselves, leading to potential bias. While the concept of "proof" is hotly debated, independent, peer-reviewed research is typically considered more reliable. The supplement market further complicates matters as regulatory authorities, like the FDA in the U.S., assess these products for safety but not effectiveness.
Lucy Goff, founder of the skincare and supplement brand Lyma, advocates for a system similar to sun care to evaluate product efficacy. She also highlights the importance of correct dosage for effectiveness, likening insufficient dosage to "taking half a paracetamol and wondering why it doesn't relieve your headache."
Yet, the world of supplements remains nebulous. While doctors can offer insights into pharmaceuticals and dietitians on food, there are few experts well-versed in the realm of supplements.
Dr. Thivi Maruthappu, the U.K.'s first dual-qualified dermatologist and nutritionist, is skeptical about skin-care ingestibles. She emphasizes the importance of a balanced diet over supplements, which should serve as aids for those deficient in certain nutrients.
So, where does this leave the ordinary consumer who has noticed visible improvements after using skin-care supplements? Should anecdotal success override the lack of strong scientific evidence? Or could these positive experiences be attributed to the placebo effect, an overall health boost, or the fact that scientific research hasn't yet caught up with product effectiveness?
Both Dr. Maruthappu and Dr. Wechsler suggest trying these products with caution. If positive changes are observed after three months, they recommend continuing the product, but caution against replacing scientifically proven skincare methods, like sun protection and retinol use, with these supplements.
In summary, dermatologists urge us to ditch the search for quick fixes and return to proven skincare principles: don't skimp on the sunscreen.
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